This Wine Tour in Provence takes place in the region where I grew up, and eventually started my career. I am extremely proud of the program during these two weeks together, and I am certain that it will provide you an authentic if luxurious vision of Provence, most likely different from what you may have read or experienced before.
This is where wine production started in France in Roman times, and where you will find the richest collection of roman and pre-historic vestiges. History and Art are omnipresent in this tour, that often operates as a time machine. We'll for instance go 38,000 years back, visiting the oldest cave paintings site in the Western World, a fascinating experience, opening our minds to a vision of very early European life, that defies intuition.
Of course this being a wine tour, we'll have quite a few visits with some of the best winemakers of France's South East, Provence. The producers I represent there are second to none, and will open their house and heart for us, and they include my own brother. We will share meals together, and unforgettable teaching moments. The quality of the food experience during the tour is crucial, and while this is a wine tour, it is also a truly gastronomic one, marked by excellence and authenticity.
All the hotels we go to are of the 4 stars category or equivalent, and provide rare charm and character, including a unique 16th Century castle/hotel with a star level table preparing its own organic produce. This year I also offer two AirBnB in Arles for a more intimate stay in the town.
I am delighted to welcome Cammie Lassiter in this tour. She is of course the owner of Savi's Wine in New Bern, one of the most out of the ordinary wine shop in NC, that has built an amazing following thanks to Cammie's unique concept for her shop in a historic house, and her kind but determined personality.
Being a professional photographer with a career spanning over more than 50 years, photography and art have a strong place in my tours. The second driver, is my friend René, from my second school of photography. He is a photographer in his own right, totally capable of offering an "alternative" view, to mine that is! We will have an extended stay in Arles, the French modern epicenter of photography. So if photography has interest for you, you are on the right page, and we are on the same one.
Please note that my tours in general, require the ability to walk. Europe and France in particular, is a place where you cannot nor want to drive everywhere. It is important that you may be able to withstand a reasonable amount of walking, which will also help you absorb the other indulging we do when it comes to food, we are in France after all! While that may not be the case every day in Provence,10,000 steps a day is something you should be able to withstand without problem, and there could be 20,000 or more in Paris. You will thank me later!
* Saturday May 17: Departure from RDU (or wherever you depart from). There are several routes to arrive in Arles, let's talk about this at booking.
Unless you have elected to come enjoy Arles earlier, which is of course possible, see option's page for "Pre Tour additional nights in Arles." PAGE NOT READY YET.
* Sunday May 18: Arrival in Paris most likely for you, and then fly to Marseille or take a train to Avignon, straight at the airport or in town, and then get in an arranged taxi to Arles.
Most of our travel companions will probably arrive on this day or the day before, so those arriving early can just relax in town and start exploring the numerous Roman vestiges museums and art exhibits.
We will all meet for dinner, but before then we will have a first pétanque game.
Welcome dinner in town.
* Monday May 19: a rather late departure allowing you to enjoy Arles's streets in the morning light and coolness, and thanks to the fact that in Arles we are rather close to our daily destinations.
We will drive to and through the Alpilles, the lovely mounts north of Arles that seduced Alphonse Daudet, Van Gogh and many other artists.
Our destination will be Chateau Romanin, a 60 Hectares estate on the north side of the mountain range, east of Saint Remy de Provence, and which produces some of the very best rosés in Provence. I tis hard if not impossible to find as good, especially at these prices.
We are there in the Baux de Provence appellation, a rather new (30 + years old) appellation, thatr has already produced some stars with international recognition. Chateau Romanin is a biodynamic producer, and their white and rosés are stunning, extremely mineral and expressive, with an elegant balance and distinctive aromas. They also produce remarkable olive oils, and even a superb Marc of Provence.
We will visit the cathedral chais carved in the roc, and be explained why Chateau Romanin is there and what makes the wines so different from most other wines in the region and beyond. We will have lunch with members of the staff and probably the owners who happened to be Americans (recent acquisition), and you know their brand! This will be in their reception room which offers a stunning view over the Rhône Valley up north, all the way to Avignon.
Return to Arles for more street roaming and a game of pétanque before dinner in another special Arles restaurant.
* Tuesday May 20: our exact destination is Domaine Richeaume, see photograph on the right, one of the most revered producers in Provence.
The estate sits at the foothills of the Montagne Sainte Victoire, which was Cezanne's favorite subject, and mine too when I was living in a nearby village in pre-historic times, at the very beginning of my photographic career.
Domaine Richeaume is a ground breaking estate which has innovated and set trends in the region for the past 45 years. The production of the Domaine is absolutely stunning, with reds that are rich, deep, strong in fruit, notably black currant and fresh tasting, as well as delicious whites, exhibiting powerful finesse. All the wines are biodynamic.
After the visit and tasting in the cellar, weather permitting we will have a picnic type of lunch with Richeaume's wines at the property with the owner.
After lunch we will take a little road offering a stunning view on the Montagne Sainte Victoire, see photograph on the left, and if you all are in the mood for this, we will have a pétanque game mingling with the natives in the village where Cézanne painted a lot.
Light dinner in Arles.
* Wednesday May 21: We will enjoy Arles a slightly late departure before heading to Camargue.
Camargue is the estuary of the Rhône river, the largest river in France. It is a swamp, not unlike the bayous of Louisiana, only under a different climate, and therefore with a vastly different vegetation and wild life, alligators are somewhat uncommon in Camargue! On our way to the Saintes Maries de la Mer, we will probably see pink flamingoes.
We will then have lunch in a charming seafood restaurant, home cooking style, in the Saintes Maries de la Mer, a cultural mecca named after Saint Marie Magdeleine and the two other Maries, who are said to have landed there after escaping persecution in Palestine. This small town by the Rhône and the sea, is swinging at the rhythm of the Flamenco. This is where the Famous band "The Gypsy Kings" is from, and their music is always in the air in Les Saintes.
After lunch you will enjoy some free time to explore the place, absorbing its rather rare mix of "Gardian" (cowboy from Camargue), Gypsies vibes, Christian shrine atmosphere, omnipresent Toro culture, and beach resort.
We will finish the day at Domaine Scamandre. Scamandre is a Domaine created from scratch by a couple of dentists who fell in love with the region, and teamed up with a high caliber oenologist. They produce delicious organic wines following a very thoughtful process in which science plays a part . We will visit the domaine with Nadine Renouard who created it with her husband, and then will proceed to a festive evening with a game of pétanque, apéritif and delicious food.
* Thursday May 22: this will be another rather late departure allowing you to enjoy Arles in the morning, exercise a bit walking around the town etc.
Our destination toady is Domaine Milan in Saint Rémy de Provence, which has gained a fair amount of recognition in modern, often "natural" wines, that are always very well made and addictive. We will have a visit of the vineyard with Natalie, an American Sommelier who married the French son of the family. A tasting will ensue, and then will do a picnic on location with local foods as well as Natalie and Théo.
We will then spend some time in Saint Rémy, exploring this charming very small town that has seduced legions of tourists before. We may have a drink there, and/or play pétanque after after exploring the town.
Light dinner in Arles.
* Friday May 23: after loading the vans in our secured parking, we will have a light lunch in Arles.
After lunch we will head to our hotel in the Rhône Valley but making first a stop at Le Pont du Gard. This Unesco World Heritage site, presents the tallest Roman aqueduct in the world, built in the 1st century and wonderfully preserved (see photograph on the left). We will enjoy a private guided visit, explaining how and why this aqueduct was built, a definitely Roman task.
We will have a privileged tour of the top story of the bridge, which is not freely opened to the public, and where water was going through 2000 years ago. It will offer both a beautiful view and a captivating perspective on the history of this edifice, how it functioned, and beyond that, will shade some light on how Romans and Gauls lived 2000 years ago.
From there we will drive to our hotel nested in a 16th century castle in the heart of the Southern Rhône valley, see photographs on the left. This hotel is nothing short of magnificent, and will offer a unique chance to live for a few days in a luxurious alternative time span.
This hotel is also as organic as it gets, with organic beddings, and one of the best tables of the region, a starred level one, focused on produce from their own organic garden. Meals at the gastronomic restaurant offer a rather vegetal and light cuisine.
Pétanque.
Welcome Gastronomic dinner at the castle (hence the light lunch).
* Saturday May 24: We will start the day with a visit with Corinne Depeyre, one of the most phenomenal Woman Vintner of the region. Her nice provençal accent betrays her lovely, jovial and easy going personality. She makes very distinctive wines, including a Natural Pink Bubbly, a late harvest Grenache noir that is totally unique, and reds of great character.
We will meet her in her vines not too far from the Castle, and then will go to her cellar to further delve in her universe. Of course we would not be as rude as not join her for an aperitif and subsequent lunch, that will reflect the joie de vivre and provençale conviviality to be expected, marked with simplicity and authenticity.
Return to the castle and enjoy the venue, its pool and/or spa.
Pétanque.
Light dinner at the castle.
* Sunday May 25: Relaxed start today as well. We go to the Mont Ventoux, and before we'll go through the Dentelles de Montmirail, a UNESCO World Registry small mountain range that graces out every day panorama in the region.
On the way to the Mont Ventoux we'll stop for lunch at a very good restaurant at the very foot of the giant. Then the ascent will start, a substantial effort to visit the king of the region, the one that we will also see everyday from afar, towering everything.
This giant is famous for his testing climb in the Tour de France, which often sorts the ultimate winner from the rest of the peloton. At the peak we will be cousins with the clouds, and will have a breathtaking 360˚ view over the Rhône Valley, the Alps, all the way to the Mediterranean, and Italy on a bright day, see photographs on the right.
Apart from its magnificence, the view really helps grasping the geography of the entire region, and put everything in perspective.
Upon getting back in the flatter parts where mortals are, we will visit the Domaine du Parandou in Sablet, a lesser known appellation among Rhône wines. This producer has been very popular with Cammie's customers, and he will be delighted to see us, all the way through dinner.
* Monday May 26: Very late start today, as our first appointment is with Pierre Fernandez of Domaine Durieu, my Chateauneuf du Pape producer. We are going to meet Pierre at one of the very best restaurants of the region, and have lunch with him there.
After lunch we will make a brief visit to a plot that they have on the nearby Plan de Dieu, mostly to see the difference in soil there with what we will encounter in Chateauneuf, where we will go just after that. After looking at several plots in Chateauneuf du Pape, we will go to Domaine Durieu tasting room for an in depth tasting.
After this thorough visit, we will explore a bit the village of Chateauneuf du Pape, see what remains of the castle and wander down the streets.
After this, we will drive back to the castle through the gorgeous route that leads to Orange, a town that Romans considered one of the most important towns in Gaule. That route offers one of the most beautiful panoramic view on the Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail, the background of our daily excursions.
Pétanque
Light dinner at the castle.
* Tuesday May 27: Today we cross the Rhône river, to drive to Chateau Rochecolombe in Ardèche, on the right bank of the Rhône. Rochecolombe is a stellar organic vineyard, producing award winning wines. It is located in the northern tip of the appellation's geographic area.
This is a more than 60 Ha estate, run very efficiently, and providing every year the best value one can find in the Côtes du Rhône appellations. We will tour the wineyard, understanding what makes Rochecolombe so unique, and see were the Côtes du Rhône is produced and where the Côtes du Rhône Villages is, thereby maybe understanding what is behind these cousin appellations. We'll then taste, from bottles, tanks and barrels, and have lunch with Laeticia and Roland the owner. The lunch will be catered by a gem restauranteur from the surroundings, friend of mine and Rochecolombe.
After lunch we will drive to the Grotte Chauvet, and after its visit we will drive down the Gorges de l'Ardèche, stopping at several breath taking belvederes.
The gorges are a magnificent site, where many caves can be found that were visited by our pre-historic ancestors, as early as 300,000 years ago. The most treasured of the caves is the Grotte Chauvet. It is a registered Unesco World heritage site, and contains some of the earliest known and best preserved figurative cave paintings in the world: 38,000 years old. It is not possible any longer to visit the actual grotte (later in the gorges, I will be able to point out where the actual grotte is), but French authorities have built a perfect replica, which is the world's reference for conservation of parietal art.
I should emphasize that this is nothing short of a life altering visit. It is beyond fascinating to dive as profoundly as such a visit allows, in the actual lives and psyche of those early ancestors of ours. This is like stepping into a time machine, that will take us far, far back in history, to the really very early stages of humanity.
Light dinner with post paleolithic cuisine at the castle.
* Wednesday May 28: This is our last touring day before Paris, and I have reserved a special treat. This morning we head to Vacqueyras and all along the way we will be graced again by the sight of the Dentelles de Montmirail that every day illuminate this part of the Rhône Valley with their unparalleled beauty.
In Vacqueyras we will be offered a very privileged visit of the Domaine Aimé Arnoux. The visit will be conducted by my actual brother who runs the whole operation, and is very involved in the wine making because of his extraordinary palate and understanding of wine.
François-Xavier will offer us a very exclusive technical and comparative tasting, that will enable us to understand the alchemy of barrel wine aging, and what parameters the winemaker can play with, in order to develop the aromatic nobility of the wine. Aimé Arnoux is the producer of the famed 1717 which ages in some of the very barrels that we will study during this tasting.
We will then have lunch with François-Xavier in a nearby restaurant.
Relaxed schedule this afternoon, enjoying the castle for one last afternoon, relaxing by the pool and/or playing pétanque.
Light dinner at the castle.
* Thursday May 29: I don't know yet about you, but my experience is that by now, I have gotten very much used to living in this prince-like way, and it is always heart pinching to have to say "adieu" to the beautiful castle and the gracious people who hosted us.
We now have to go see other skies, Parisian ones, which of course, is not really a punishment! We'll leave the castle in mid morning, in order to be in Valence my home town, for a lunch at the foothill of another castle which dominates the town, an altitude excellent restaurant.
High speed train for Paris in 1st class, where we will arrive 2:20 hours later a little bit before 6:00 normally.
Taxi to our hotel in Saint Germain des Près in one of the hydrogen powered vehicles of the company I work with, which provides the most environmentally friendly solution. Our four star hotel is located in the heart of Saint Germain des Près, not far from the Seine river. This is both a beautiful and central location, from where we can walk almost everywhere in Paris, and we do need to do some walking after two weeks of rather decadent indulgences!
The hotel is very comfortable, safe and with a great staff. Over the years, I have developed a great relationship with Marco, the Director, who provides extra care to my customers and myself. I am absolutely certain that you will greatly enjoy your stay there. And why not, right? We are going to be in one of the very most desirable locations in town!
Dinner with Le Tout Paris.
* Friday May 30: Today you will be enjoying a free day in Paris. You also have the option to tour Paris with me, as well as meet for dinner, see Paris options page.
* Saturday May 31st: This is the official end of the tour, unless you have chosen to extend your stay in Paris, which is always possible and desirable.
So if you want to enjoy a bit more of this delightful city: free day in Paris, option to tour it with me, as well as meet for dinner, see Paris options page,
If you are regrettably heading to the airport, I will be happy to arrange a taxi to pick you up (please let me know ahead of time) with the same hydrogen powered Taxi Company that brought you to the hotel. You will pay for the ride directly with the driver, and this company works at the same rate as regular taxis.
* Sunday June 1rst : If you are still enjoying Paris, you could want to tour it with me one last day, or one last meet us for dinner option, as tomorrow I have to leave to prepare the upcoming Brittany tour on my way to the Bordeaux Tour that starts in a couple of weeks.
We'll see each others again!