This trip will take you in a part of France, its deep South, that remains mysterious to even a lot of French people. In Languedoc you will be chasing medieval ghosts, in places mostly known by pilgrims on their way to Compostelle, there may be something mystical about this tour.
You will encounter wine characters who are already legend material. Wine has been the main occupation there since Roman times, and has emerged in the past 50 years as the new French Wine Frontier. These days, It attracts the most adventurous wine makers, who without constraining appellations, allow themselves to push boundaries outside the map.
In other words: you will tour a part of France which is out of this world.
The hotels in this tour are of a rare charm and character, illustrating the creativity found in this Deep South of France, where hospitality is linked to the sense of honor, and where you will be treated with unparalleled receptions by the wine makers.
I have researched this region since 2019, seeking the Grail, and I think I found it. I am proud to write that my selection in this far South can triumph in any blind tasting competition with any of my colleague.
This is also a rather endearing part of France with very genuine people, according sceneries, as well as sometimes grandiose ones.
Being a professional photographer with a career spanning over more than 50 years, photography and art have a strong place in my tours, and we will be talking art in this one. If photography has interest for you, you are on the right page, and we are on the same one.
During this tour, and quite exceptionally, you will have a bonus companion: Zhait Ponce, formerly wine Director at Parizade. You will adore Zhait's proximity, humanity and curiosity, notably when it comes to wine. He will be there to learn, just like you, and will be a great facilitator for the propagation of knowledge and exchange of ideas.
Please take a look at the itinerary, and I hope you will feel inspired to join this tour of wonders.
* Friday September 26: Departure from RDU (or wherever you depart from) to Paris, or another European city that connects to Nîmes or Montpellier, but Paris is probably ideal if departing from NC.
* Saturday September 27: In Paris you may take a train, either directly at the Airport, or after a taxi cab ride and subsequent breakfast, in Paris Gare de Lyon. Or more simply gat a connection flight to Montpellier. If you fly Delta or Air France that is the easiest way. A high speed train can take you directly to Nîmes, and otherwise from Montpellier Airport you will get a ride to the Hotel in Nîmes.
Your final destination is Nîmes, an important Roman town that will provide an oasis before we all leave for the unknown rocky frontier.
Nîmes is a very pleasant town to spend a few days before the tour, and you may arrive early. Given what you will read just below, you probably will enjoy being there Thursday or Friday, see option's page for "Pre Tour additional nights in Nîmes," where I will be arriving on Wednesday September 24.
Optional lunches and dinners will be offered from Thursday September 25. These couple of days prior to September 27, will be a good opportunity for those in town to casually get in gear, enjoy local foods and shops, visit the Roman and other historic monuments of the town, and most importantly, start practicing their pétanque in order to be at their best for the upcoming World Championship.
Saturday Morning we will have a guided visit in English of the Jardins de la Fontaine, beautiful gardens with lots of Renaissance sculptures and very close to the hotel.
Nîmes is also an interesting town to do some out of the ordinary shopping, including fashion shopping. While this is not necessarily what you will be tempted by there, Nîmes is where "De Nîmes a.k.a. denim" originated.
Dinner in Nîmes in an atmospheric very relaxed French restaurant.
* Sunday September 28: If you get up early enough, you might want to take one last walk in the Jardins de la Fontaine before we leave town. Our destination will be the Domaine Cours Saint Vincent, an unassuming winery north of Montpellier and definitely in sight of the Pic Saint Loup.
Stéphan produces organic wines in Coteaux du Languedoc and Grès de Montpellier appellations. These are rather substantial reds, round and well balanced with dark fruits that remain expressive. It will be a good introduction for the wines we will encounter around this trip. And Stéphan will receive us with the bonhommie and joviality that characterizes him and the people in this region.
We will have lunch there, enjoying a somewhat simple, although not ordinary, and well hearted hospitality.
All this will take some time, and we'll eventually take a walk in the lovely village before heading to our first site of residence, the Mysterious Village #1, 40 minutes away, to discover the lovely hotel where we will spend the next 4 nights.
This village is tucked by a river on one side and a mount on the other, on top of which are the ruins of a castle. Like most villages in the region, it has a medieval structure. It is a more or less walled, and seems to have just re-emerged from oblivion where it sat, frozen in the past for 3-4 centuries. This is a place where the likes of Cyrano de Bergerac are a plausible encounter in the rather unique design of criss-crossing streets and two small squares that seem to be open invitations for all sorts of troubadours.
On the edge of the surrounding wall, perched on the beginning of the mount and right under the remnants of the castle is our hotel. this is a very sizable Master house, from the 17th century. Our hosts have kept it somewhat natural, respecting its spirit rather than transforming it into a modern four star facility. Think of it as your aristocratic grandmother's family house with very spacious rooms offering all necessary comfort, elegant country style without affectation and exempt of modern Bohemian renovations.
There is an interior garden and terrasse gardens overlooking the town, as well as a rooftop swimming pool.
I absolutely adore this place and would be thrilled to live there.
First qualifying Pétanque game.
Dinner at the hotel, in the garden, weather permitting. Weather is rather permitting in the region in this season.
* Monday September 29: We start our exploration of the area going north toward the part called the "Cévennes," which is the very southeastern tip of the central mountains. This is where we will find Domaine Sollier, a quintessentially "Cévenol" producer, with delicious and surprising whites.
We'll have a visit of the vineyard and cellar with Thomas, one of the two brothers now at the helm of the winery. And then we'll also taste the wines.
Lunch at a very good restaurant in the valley.
Pétanque.
Dinner in our mysterious village, by the river if conditions allow.
* Tuesday September 30: We'll leave the hotel at a leisurely hour for a visit of one of the top Vin Nature producer in France: Mas Foulaquier, organic and biodynamic. I can't say that I am an unconditional fan of Vins Nature, but some of them are indeed very pertinent, and I find some made by Blandine and Pierre, definitely extremely interesting.
These two are top notch vintners, and they will show us their property, cellar etc. We will have a lively and touching lunch there.
After lunch we will venture north to a small town, perched near the Cévennes and full of creative and visually compelling architecture. The third round of the Pétanque World Cup will take place on this foreign ground as good pétanque players need to adapt quickly to new conditions. There is little doubt that those not playing, should there be any, will enjoy a drink at one of the local cafés or more wandering in the streets.
Dinner back at the Unbelievable Hotel in the Mysterious Village #1, for a heart pinching aristocratic country affair.
* Wednesday October 1st: This entire region is dominated by the Pic Saint Loup, a beautiful mountain that towers Montpellier and is visible 360˚ around, and that we will have seen already several times on the horizon. The mountain gives its name to the main wine appellation in these quarters, and today we visit Contrast Wines Pic Saint Loup (PSL) organic producer: La Chouette du Chai.
This is a very secluded estate, in a dream like location, just under the Pic. You may confuse this winery for an open air art museum, as it is full of substantial sculptures, including "The Tower of Life's Ups and Downs," a tower that one could climb (it is unfortunately not open to the public) through a staircase as uneven and circumvolved as life can be, especially for those not traveling with Contrast Tours.
Wine wise, this estate offer the best PSL I know, as well as other very creative and interesting wines, creations as artistic as the surrounding art.
We'll eat moderately lightly at a nearby restaurant, as after lunch those willing will be climbing the Pic Saint Loup. This is not Mount Everest, but it is not a cake walk either. I can tell you that Loic will stay at the nearest bar, or will be driving back those of you who will take a pass, preferring to spend the rest of the day at the village, by the pool etc.
I will be with you if you choose to go meet the Gods at the top. The trail is very rocky, so it will require proper shoes, and ideally sticks, but the view on top is vertiginous, and Pic Saint Loup wines will have a different meaning for you afterward.
Back to the Hotel.
Another round of World Pétanque Cup.
Dinner at a nearby Neapolitan pizzeria owned and operated by neapolitans I am friend with. Massimo is always curious about French wines, and we are going to show him how some local wines are fantastic with pizza.
* Thursday October 2nd: with a certain feeling of loss, we have to leave now, the mysterious Village#1 who revealed its charm to us. We now head west to explore the Terrasse du Larzac. But we are not going to take the straightest route. Oh no.
We have to see the greatness of the Larzac first, experience the desolation, the "2001 Space Odissey-like" stone immensity, the place that would chill Don Quixote's bones. Today we are driving through the No-Man-of-Conscience-Land."
Not that far mind you. One hour after leaving the hotel, and after a short glance of what the Larzac may be like, we arrive to an oasis already, where we'll have a real country like lunch, with local products, and hearty type of dishes.
From there we'll enter the core of the stone temple, on roads really made for donkey pulled carts, see photograph on the right as evidence. This landscape is for monks, its inner beauty fosters spirituality.
After 1 hour of this Cervantes type of quest, we will rejoin civilization, leaving the Larzac for its terraces. From there you can see the sea in the far distance, and while we are still in relative altitude, water is not as scarce, the landscape, while definitely Mediterranean, seems to be able to feed its people. This is where some of the best wines of the tour are produced.
And we are going to experience this right away. On the edge of the Terrasses du Larzac, we'll visit the Mas du Pountil, an organic winery created by a young couple, Angéla and Brice. They produce wines on a more aerial side than what we will have experienced lately, and with a determined un-ordinariness.
We will taste, discuss, and Brice will show us a determinant geological place, important for the understanding of the region. This will be a rather brief visit, as this day is long. but we are almost arrived to our destination.
In less than a half hour, we will be in our second site of residence: Legendary Village #2.
This village is a true place of legend, and has been visited by millions of pilgrims on their way to Compostelle over the centuries. This is the type of place where you'd expect to find a monastery, and there is one, as well as a church of importance. There are also streets that seem to go back to medieval times--one of them leads to the end of the world, where we might go--, and lots of curiosities.
After dropping our luggage at the hotel, we will spend the rest of the day freely exploring this charming site.
But the Pétanque World Cup does not take a break ...
Dinner at the hotel, it is dark outside and you can see the stars.
* Friday October 3: Today is the day when we meet Gil Morrot. Gil who? No blasphemy please, for a few of us lucky to have crossed his path, Gil is the holy Grail of wine. Of course nobody knows him, he and his chai are in an undisclosed and very discrete location, and his photograph, see on the right, is not ordinarily available.
BUT, when your lips encounter his wine (organic), then everything makes sense, and all problems are solved, as promised about another fellow on countless billboards on route 70, except that here it is real, the wine is on your palate and Gil is in front of you. I told you these landscapes make one mystical, didn't I?
I don't know if Gil's wine is the best one under the sun, but it sure stands apart, tall and high, and I am happy that you will get to meet him, hear how he produces it, what animates him, the whole monty. And then we'll have lunch with him on the town's square in one of the Terrasses du Larzac's very best restaurant.
After lunch we may go back up on the Larzac, just on its edge, to have the best unparalleled view on the region, from the Pic Saint Loup still there and obvious on the left, to the Pyrenees in the distance on the right. No hiking necessary, just a good driver and people trusting him.
And then we'll go back to the Legendary Village #2, for more exploration and Pétanque World Cup.
Dinner at the Oasis Hotel.
* Saturday October 4: We leave the village of legends today. On our inexorable west bound quest. We'll drive toward Saint Chinian, the wine capital of our last segment of the trip in Languedoc, but the longest one. And almost there we will be welcomed by Bruno Cathala, who created the domaine rather recently, and is known for his cuvées that all have "A" in their name.
Given our timing, we'll probably see his various plots, which soil are important for what, as Saint Chinian is deeply divided in two types of soil that leads rather different wines. And then we'll have lunch in the vineyard, a country type of lunch and a tasting of Bruno's wines at the same time. It has been rumored that there might be wild boar in the menu.
After this, we'll be en route for the Heavenly Village #3 where we will stay for the next 6 nights. This village a little out of the main tracks, is a village hotel. It has its own regular population that lives its normal life, and then maybe a 20% of the village has been bought by the same fellow who created the rather major winery set on the village's outskirts, in the countryside.
There are rooms in several locations here and there in the village, the center square is the restaurant, there is another restaurant next to it, a Thai one, and then there is a gastronomic third restaurant. Plus an art gallery, a brewery. In short a miniature and adorable resort with impeccable style and colors, a sort of Barbieland if Barbie was a wine producer.
After setting up in our rooms and exploring the Wineland Village, the Pétanque World Cup will resume.
Dinner on center square.
* Sunday October 5: We spend today with the vintner and director of the whole operation hosting us, Clément the "Village Chief." Clément is above all a prodigious wine maker as we'll see. The production here is organic.
We'll start by a visit of the chai which is itself a work of art in terms of architecture. This will be followed by a tasting lending itself to a picnic type of lunch in the vineyard. By now our stomach would appreciate some downtime, so we are not going to tax them too much, especially given what follows.
Because today we climb on the Caroux. The Caroux is that beautiful mountain looking like a sarcophage, that towers the whole region, see photograph on the left. I find important, as well as calory burning, to conquer it. As always those not interested by this type of exercise will have an alternative with Loic.
The whole drive and climb will take about 5 hours, and from the top you will have a beautiful view. I should clarify that the climb is really a walk. Yes there is a little bit of going up and therefore down, but most of the ascent will have been done by car.
And while we had a lighter type of lunch, tonight we eat at the Village's Gastronomic Restaurant, with an emphasis on the wines of the village, Clément's production.
* Monday October 6: We are in the Saint Chinian Appellation, the appellation in the world where I have the most producers, all different and all really amazing.
Today we are going to spend the best part of the day with one of iSaint Chinian's very best producers: The Mas de Cynanque, a winery revered all over this deep south. Violaine and Xavier are both oenologists, and produce organic wines with a lot of personal character that exude their terroir, including some mono varietal wines (Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah) which are all remarkable. A good part of the production is made of very rare wines, like a late harvest Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris blend.
We'll visit the vineyard, see the very old vines, hear what soil is here and which one is there, which varietal is planted where, then go to the chai before a tasting morphing into a nice lunch at the farm.
And after lunch we will do a gentle hike through the hills and to further vineyard.
Back to the heavenly village.
Pétanque World Cup.
Dinner at the Village.
* Tuesday October 7: Today we visit winemakers on the edge, on the edge of the Saint Chinian appellation, but also on the wine making edge. These folks are outside of norms and live accordingly, in a rather remote village high on the edge of the wine producing area, with vines growing on fields of limestone rocks.
He is American, she is local. They have been doing this for the past 30 years almost, and have created a legend. You will find their unique cuvées on starred restaurants tables, that could not resist to their unmistakable character, notably a fabulous orange wine, and a totally unique blend of piquepoul blanc, gris and noir, resulting in a sort of clairet that gives Bordeaux a run for its money.
Nicole and John will share their spirit with us, we'll visit their plots, unusual chai, and of course taste their wines before sharing a meal together.
Back to the floor below, the heavenly village.
Pétanque World Cup.
Thai Dinner at the Village.
* Wednesday October 8: Another stage today on our circuit around legends, today we visit maybe Marc Benin, Domaine de Ravanes.
This is another totally out of the norm winery. Marc grows mostly Bordeaux varietals, as well as exotic ones that he has selected as they seemed to be able to adapt well to his terroir. One of his wines ultimately beat Chateau Petrus (one of the very most prestigious wines in the world), in a blind tasting, and even if this is almost anecdotical, his wines have so much typicality and character that both Loic and I have been blown away each time we have been there, and I expect that you will be as well.
It is little known, and should not be mentioned there, but Gil Morrot was originally put on the right wine tracks by Marc when Gil started his training.
The soil at Ravanes is a bit out of the ordinary especially compared to the places we have visited, so Marc will explain to us the history of the Domaine, why these soils appealed to his father, and what led them to plant what they have. A tasting as well as a winemaker lunch will ensue, in total conviviality and local tradition.
If we are in the mood, we will finish the day in Béziers, the capital of this part of the region, and where the wine lords and merchants used to be 100 years ago. This will include the 9 locks near the city on the Canal du Midi.
Dinner at the Village.
* Thursday October 9: Today we go as much west as we'll ever go in this tour, direction the Minervois, to its star producer: Domaine La Rouviole. Another organic becoming biodynamic producer, La Rouviole makes the Minervois appellation shine, with wines of utmost character and typicity.
Minervois wines tend to be a bit earthy, with definite intensity, dark fruits, and La Rouviole definitely produces that, as well as some atypical wines, like a 100% Carignan, and a 100% Cinsault, a rarity, and a wine finally allowing to discover what Cinsault is about.
We'll certainly visit the beautifully located estate, discuss wine making with Denis, the Vintner and Director of the operation. Eventually we will have a country lunch mixing elegance, friendliness and conviviality.
On our way back to the heavenly village, we will pay a visit to Minerve, the lovely village that gave its name to this part of Languedoc.
Pétanque World Cup final.
Dinner on the Village's square.
* Friday October 10: After going west for days and days, today we unfortunately have to go back north. The deep south exploration is running into an end, but the consolation is that up north we will be in Paris, and isn't this always ultra sweet?
The improbable heavenly village will fade in the distance, but probably not in your memories, and we will reach the major roads, heading east in the coastal part of the region. We will stop on the "Autoroute" at a rest area facing Séte, and normally a truck there serves local oysters from the Etang de Thau. We will have some, as well as the picnic put together by our hosts at the Improbable Village.
It is worth mentioning that Mediterranean oysters are saltier and oilier than the ocean ones near Bordeaux or Brittany, and the Southern whites from Domaine Cathala, Ravanès, La Rouviole, work very well with them, and of curse we will try these combinations.
But we have a high speed train to catch, and we eventually will, in Montpellier.
In Paris we'll take taxis to the hotel in Saint Germain des Près, before a nice walk to the other side of the river, to the restaurant where we will celebrate our arrival in Paris, with real Parisians surrounding us.
* Saturday October 11: Today may be when you fly back home, although I hope that you stay a bit with us in Paris, as it would be a bit brutal to go back home so fast and not enjoy Paris a bit. I can of course book for you as many additional nights as you would like.
If you are staying, you might want to tour Paris with me, or meet us for dinner, see options page.
* Sunday October 12: One more day in Paris, same drill as yesterday: see the option page.
* Monday October 13: My last day in Paris for this trip, we'll go to the Eiffel Tower and have lunch there, come with me: see the option page.
* Tuesday October 14: Folks I would love to carry on like this forever, but … And I have to go to the South, but you are welcome to stay in Paris for as long as you 'd like. We shall see each others again.
Sorry that you have to fly back eventually, we all have to!