THE OCCITANIE WINE TOUR, FALL 2024

SEPTEMBER 27 - OCTOBER 11 2024

Limited to 13 participants

Plus Loic, the other driver, and myself

4 Spots Remaining

ABOUT THIS TOUR:

transatlantic flight, moon
Approaching Europe
vendanges, harvest
Slow Down, Harvest!
denis brihat print show
grape, vine, rhône
grotte chauvet
pont d'arc
Gorges de l'ardeche, belvedere
Gorges de l'ardeche, belvedere
valence, vue de crussol
La Palette, café, bistrot, paris
Des Amants dans mon Café
eiffel tower, eiffel, paris
Des Amants dans mon Café
vignes sur fond de Sante Victoire
poppies, coquelicots
pink flamingoes
arnoux et fils, François-Xavier Vidil, contrast tours
dinner, provence, vacqueyras
lunch, Provence
tgv
High Speed Train to Paris
La Tartine, café, bistrot, paris
La Tartine
paris wine dinner
Paris Dinner
paris, Cartier Bresson, photographie, maison europeene
Salut l'Artiste

THIS PAGE IS ONLY MISSING THE PHOTOGRAPHS

This trip will take you in a part of France, its deep South, that remains mysterious to even most French people. I call it "Occitanie," but its real name should be "Piedmont Oriental Occitanie." And most of you may be more familiar with its previous name, "Languedoc," of which the places we will visit in this tour, are a major part.

This is a region of France where wine has been the main occupation since Roman times, and which after a long history, has come back to the forefront of French wines excellence in the past few decades. It is fair to write that it is the new French Wine Frontier, for this is where the most adventurous wine makers establish themselves, outside of most appellations that would bring any notoriety. A number of them actually choose to just be in "Vin de France," or "IGP," the most generic and least restrictive appellations possible, which allow them to push the boundaries further than most of you may imagine.

I have researched this region since 2019, in search of the Grail, and I think I found it. I am proud to write that my selection in this far South can triumph in any blind tasting competition with any of my colleague.

This is also a rather endearing part of France with very genuine people, and according sceneries, as well as sometimes grandiose ones.

All the hotels in this tour are of utmost standards, and provide an extremely special rare charm and character, illustrating the creativity found in this Deep South of France, which in that regard, is not that far in spirit from the New South where I write this.

Being a professional photographer with a career spanning over more than 50 years, photography and art have a strong place in my tours. I will have my portfolio on hand in this tour, and we will be talking art. If photography has interest for you, you are on the right page, and we are on the same one.

Please take a look at the itinerary, and I hope you will feel inspired to join this tour of wonders.

ITINERARY:

* Friday September 27: Departure from RDU (or wherever you depart from) to Paris, or another European city that connects to Nîmes or Montpellier, but Paris is probably ideal if departing from NC.


* Saturday September 28: In Paris you will take a train, either directly at the Airport, or after a taxi cab ride and subsequent breakfast, in Paris Gare de Lyon.

Your final destination is Nîmes, an important Roman town that will provide an oasis before we all leave for the unknown rocky frontier.

Nîmes is a very pleasant town to spend a few days before the tour, and you may arrive early. Given what you will read just below, you probably will enjoy being there Thursday or Friday, see option's page for "Pre Tour additional nights in Nîmes," where I will be arriving on Wednesday September 25.

Optional lunches and dinners will be offered from Thursday September 26 on. These couple of days prior to September 28 will be a good opportunity for those in town to casually get in gear, enjoy local foods and shops, visit the Roman and other historic monuments of the town, and most importantly, start practicing their pétanque in order to be at their best for the upcoming world Championship.

Saturday afternoon we will have a guided visit in English of the Jardins de la Fontaine, beautiful gardens with lots of Renaissance sculptures and very close to the hotel.

Nîmes is also an interesting town to do some out of the ordinary shopping, including fashion shopping. While this is not necessarily what you will be tempted by there, Nîmes is where "De Nîmes a.k.a. denim" originated.

Dinner in Nîmes in an atmospheric very relaxed French restaurant with friends of mine that go back to pre-historic times.


* Sunday September 29:
If you get up early enough, you might want to take one last walk in the Jardins de la Fontaine before we leave town. Our destination will be the Domaine Cours Saint Vincent, an unassuming winery north of Montpellier and definitely in sight of the Pic Saint Loup.

Stéphan produces organic wines in Coteaux du Languedoc and Grès de Montpellier appellations. These are rather substantial reds, round and well balanced with dark fruits that remain expressive. It will be a good introduction for the wines we will encounter around this trip. And Stéphan will receive us with the bonhommie and joviality that characterizes him and the people in this region.

We will have lunch there, enjoying a somewhat simple, although not ordinary, and well hearted hospitality.

All this will take some time, and we'll eventually take a walk in the lovely village before heading to our first site of residence, the Mysterious Village #1, 40 minutes away, to discover the lovely hotel where we will spend the next 3 nights.

This village is tucked by a river on one side and a mount on the other, on top of which are the ruins of a castle. Like most villages in the region, it has a medieval structure. It is a more or less walled, and seems to have just re-emerged from oblivion where it sat, frozen in the past for 3-4 centuries. This is a place where the likes of Cyrano de Bergerac are a plausible encounter in the rather unique design of criss-crossing streets and two small squares that seem to be open invitations for all sorts of troubadours.

On the edge of the surrounding wall, perched on the beginning of the mount and right under the remnants of the castle is our hotel. this is a very sizable Master house, from the 17th century. Our hosts have kept it somewhat natural, respecting its spirit rather than transforming it into a modern four star facility. Think of it as your aristocratic grandmother's family house with very spacious rooms offering all necessary comfort, elegant country style without affectation.

There is an interior garden and terrasse gardens overlooking the town, as well as a rooftop swimming pool.

I absolutely adore this place and would be thrilled to live there.

First qualifying Pétanque game.

Dinner at the hotel, in the garden, weather permitting. Weather is rather permitting in the region in this season.


* Monday September 30: This entire region is dominated by the Pic Saint Loup, a beautiful mountain that towers Montpellier and is visible 360˚ around. The mountain gives its name to the main wine appellation in these quarters, and today we visit Contrast Wines Pic Saint Loup (PSL) organic producer: La Chouette du Chai.

This is a very secluded estate, in a dream like location, just under the Pic. You may confuse this winery for an open air art museum, as it is full of substantial sculptures, including "The Tower of Life's Ups and Downs," a tower that one could climb (it is unfortunately not open to the public) through a staircase as uneven and circumvoluted as life can be, especially for those not traveling with Contrast Tours.

Wine wise, this estate offer the best PSL I know, as well as other very creative and interesting wines, creations as artistic as the surrounding art.

We'll eat moderately lightly, as after lunch those willing will be climbing the Pic Saint Loup. This is not Mount Everest, but it is not a cake walk either. I can tell you that Loic will stay at the nearest bar, or will be driving back those of you who will take a pass, preferring to spend the rest of the day at the village, by the pool etc.

I will be with you if you choose to go meet the Gods at the top. The trail is very rocky, so it will require proper shoes, and ideally sticks, but the view on top is vertiginous, and Pic Saint Loup wines will have a different meaning for you afterward.

Back to the Hotel.

Second round of World Pétanque Cup.

Dinner at the luxuriant hotel.


* Tuesday October 1st:
We'll leave the hotel at a leisurely hour for a visit of one of the top Vin Nature producer in France: Mas Foulaquier, organic and biodynamic. I can't say that I am an unconditional fan of Vins Nature, but some of them are indeed very pertinent, and I find some made by Blandine and Pierre, definitely extremely interesting.

These two are top notch vintners, and they will show us their property, cellar etc. We will have a lively and touching lunch there.

After lunch we will venture north to a small town, perched near the Cévennes and full of creative and visually compelling architecture. The third round of the Pétanque World Cup will take place on this foreign ground as good pétanque players need to adapt quickly to new conditions. There is little doubt that those not playing will enjoy a drink at one of the local cafés or more wandering in the streets.

Dinner back at the Unbelievable Hotel in the Mysterious Village #1, for a heart pinching last aristocratic country affair.


* Wednesday October 2nd:
with a certain feeling of loss, we have to leave now, the mysterious Village#1 who revealed its charm to us. We now head west to explore the Terrasse du Larzac. But we are not going to take the straightest route. Oh no.

We have to see the Larzac first, experience the desolation, the "2001 Space Odissey-like" stone immensity, the place that would chill Don Quixote's bones. Today we are driving through the No-Man-of-Conscience-Land."

Not that far mind you. One hour after leaving the hotel, and after a short glance of what the Larzac may be like, we arrive to an oasis already, where we'll have a real country like lunch, with local products, and hearty type of dishes.

From there we'll enter the core of the stone empire, on roads really made for donkey pulled carts, see photograph on the right as evidence. This landscape is for monks, its inner beauty fosters spirituality.

After 1 hour of this Cervantes type of quest, we will rejoin civilization, leaving the Larzac for its terraces. From there you can see the sea in the far distance, and while we are still in relative altitude, water is not as scarce, and the landscape, while definitely Mediterranean, seems to be able to feed its people. This is where some of the best wines of the tour are produced.

And we are going to experience this right away. On the edge of the Terrasses du Larzac, we'll visit the Mas du Pountil, an organic winery created by a young couple, Angéla and Brice, that produce wines on a more aerial side than what we will have experienced lately, and with a determined un-ordinariness.

We will taste, discuss, and Brice will show us a determinant geological place, important for the understanding of the region. This will be a rather brief visit, as this day is long. but we are almost arrived to our destination.

In less than a half hour, we will be in our second site of residence: Legendary Village #2.

This village is a true place of legend, and has been visited by millions of pilgrims on their way to Compostelle over the centuries. This is the type of place where you'd expect to find a monastery, and there is one, as well as a church of importance. There are also streets that seem to go back to medieval times--one of them leads to the end of the world, where we might go--, and lots of curiosities.

After dropping our luggage at the hotel, we will spend the rest of the day freely exploring this charming site.

But the Pétanque World Cup does not take a break ...

Dinner at the hotel, it is dark outside and you can see the stars.


* Thursday October 3rd:
Today is the day when we meet Gil Morrot. Gil who? No blasphemy please, for a few of us lucky to have crossed his path, Gil is the holy Grail of wine. Of course nobody knows him, he and his chai are in an undisclosed and very discrete location, and his photograph, see on the right, is not ordinarily available.

BUT, when your lips encounter his wine (organic), then everything makes sense, and all problems are solved, as promised about another fellow on countless billboards on route 70, except that here it is real, the wine is on your palate and Gil is in front of you. I told you these landscapes make one mystical, didn't I?

I don't know if Gil's wine is the best one under the sun, but it sure stands apart, tall and high, and I am happy that you will get to meet him, hear how he produces it, what animates him, the whole monty. And then we'll have lunch with him on the town's square in one of the Terrasses du Larzac's very best restaurant.

After lunch we may go back up on the Larzac, just on its edge, to have the best unparalleled view on the region, from the Pic Saint Loup still there and obvious on the left, to the Pyrenees in the distance on the right. No hiking necessary, just a good driver and people trusting him.

And then we'll go back to the Legendary Village #2, for more exploration and Pétanque World Cup.

Dinner at the Oasis Hotel.


* Friday October 4:
We leave the village of legends today. On our inexorable west bound quest, we'll first stop in a beautiful village made famous by a geological formation of wonder.

We'll then drive toward Saint Chinian, the wine capital of our last segment of the trip in Occitanie. And almost there we will be welcomed by Bruno Cathala, who created the domaine rather recently, and is known for his cuvées that all have "A" in their name.

Given our timing, we'll probably first have lunch in the vineyard, a country type of lunch and a tasting of Bruno's wines at the same time. Then Bruno will show us his various plots, which soil are important for what, as Saint Chinian is deeply divided in two types of soil that leads rather different wines.

After this, we'll be en route for the Heavenly Village #3 where we will stay for the next 5 nights. This village a little out of the main tracks, is a village hotel. It has its own regular population that lives its normal life, and then maybe a third of the village has been bought by the same fellow who created the rather major winery set on the village's outskirts, in the countryside.

There are rooms in several locations here and there in the village, the center square is the restaurant, there is another restaurant next to it, a Thai one, and then there is a Michelin 1 star third restaurant. Plus an art gallery, a brewery. In short a miniature and adorable resort with impeccable style and colors, a sort of Barbieland if Barbie was a wine producer.

After setting up in our rooms and exploring the Wineland Village, the Pétanque World Cup will resume.

Dinner on center square.


* Saturday October 5:
We are now in the Saint Chinian Appellation, the appellation in the world where I have the most producers, all different and all really amazing.

Today we start the exploration of Saint Chinian with one of its very best producers: The Mas de Cynanque, a winery revered all over this deep south. Violaine and Xavier are both oenologists and produce organic wines with a lot of personal character that exude their terroir, including some mono varietal wines (Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah) which are all remarkable. A good part of the production is made of very rare wines, like a late harvest Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, which mind you they are out of, since I bought the last 120 bottles and they have not been able to produce more since, thanks to climate change, but hopefully one of these years ...

We'll visit the vineyard, see the very old vines, hear what soil is here and which one is there, which varietal is planted where, then go to the chai before a tasting morphing into a nice lunch at the farm.

And after lunch we will do a gentle hike through the hills and to further vineyard.

Before going back to the heavenly village, we'll visit an oil mill, learn their processes, taste their products.

Pétanque World Cup.

Thai dinner at the Village.


* Sunday October 6:
We spend today with the vintner and director of the whole operation hosting us, Clément the "Village Chief." Clément is above all a prodigious wine maker as we'll see. The production here is organic.

We'll start by an extensive visit of the vineyard, followed by a tasting lending itself to a picnic type of lunch. By now our stomach would appreciate some downtime, so we are not going to tax them too much, especially given what follows.

Because we might have to cut the visit a bit short, and resume it later, for today we climb on the Caroux. The Caroux is that beautiful mountain looking like a sarcophage, that towers the whole region, see photograph on the left. I find important, as well as calory burning, to conquer it. As always those not interested by this type of exercise will have an alternative with Loic.

The whole drive and climb will take about 5 hours, and from the top you will have a beautiful view.

Upon our return we will resume the visit with Clément, unless time has evaporated too fast, in which case we will resume it at the end of the day tomorrow.

And while we had a lighter type of lunch, tonight we eat at the Village's and our host's Michelin Star Restaurant, with the wines of the village, Clément's production, which includes a 100% Carignan Blanc brought directly from heaven. Totally stunning, with a formidable typicity, a wine of legend.


* Monday October 7:
Today we go as much west as we'll ever go in this tour, direction the Minervois, to its star producer: Domaine La Rouviole. Another organic becoming biodynamic producer, La Rouviole makes the Minervois appellation shine, with wines of utmost character and typicity.

Minervois wines tend to be a bit earthy, with definite intensity, dark fruits, and La Rouviole definitely produces that, as well as some atypical wines, like a 100% Carignan, and I am told this 2024 spring will see its first 100% Cinsault, a rarity and a wine finally allowing to discover what Cinsault is about.

We'll certainly visit the beautifully located estate, discuss wine making with Denis, the Vintner and Director of the operation. Eventually we will have a country lunch mixing elegance, friendliness and conviviality.

On our way back to the heavenly village, we will pay a visit to Minerve, the lovely village that gave its name to this part of Occitanie.

End of yesterday's visit, and/or Pétanque World Cup semi final.

Dinner on the Village's square.


* Tuesday October 8: For our last day around Saint Chinian, we will visit maybe the most stunning producer of the whole tour: Marc Benin, Domaine de Ravanes.

This is a totally out of the norm winery. Marc grows mostly Bordeaux varietals, as well as exotic ones that he has selected as they seemed to be able to adapt well to his terroir. One of his wines ultimately beat Chateau Petrus (one of the very most prestigious wines in the world), in a blind tasting, and even if this is almost anecdotical, his wines have so much typicality and character that both Loic and I have been blown away each time we have been there, and I expect that you will be as well.

It is little known, and should not be mentioned there, but Gil Morrot was originally put on the right wine tracks by Marc when Gil started his training.

The soil at Ravanes is a bit out of the ordinary especially compared to the places we have visited, so Marc will explain to us the history of the Domaine, why these soils appealed to his father, and what led them to plant what they have. A tasting as well as a winemaker lunch will ensue, in total conviviality and local tradition.

We will finish the day in Béziers, the capital of this part of the region, and where the wine lords and merchants used to be 100 years ago. We will have a guided visit of the town, starting at the 9 locks near the city on the Canal du Midi.

Last Supper at the Village.


* Wednesday October 9:
After going west for days and days, today we unfortunately have to go back north. The deep south exploration is running into an end, but the consolation is that up north we will be in Paris, and isn't this always ultra sweet?

The improbable heavenly village will fade in the distance, but probably not in your memories, and we will reach the major roads, heading east in the coastal part of the region. We will stop at a fabulous oyster restaurant by the Etang de Thau, for an oyster lunch of wonder with some of the most oyster inclined wines from the tour, notably some from Domaine de Ravanes.

It is worth mentioning that Mediterranean oysters are saltier and oilier than the ocean ones near Bordeaux or Brittany, and the Southern whites work well with them. The restaurant offers a beautiful view on the sound and Sète on the other side of it. Those who, extraordinarily, do not like oysters or seafood, will be able to eat at a sister restaurant nearby.

But we have a high speed train to catch, and we eventually will, near Montpellier.

In Paris we'll take taxis to the hotel in Saint Germain des Près, before a good walk to an eccentric restaurant on the Left Bank, one for Parisians who know.


* Thursday October 10: Today is a totally free day, unless you are touring Paris with me and visit the extreme center of Paris, its most beautiful part I think. You can join this itinerary or do your thing, and if so join us for dinner or not, see options page.


* Friday October 11: This is the official end of the tour, unless you have chosen to extend your stay in Paris, which is always possible and desirable, especially given where we stay and what the options are.

So if you want to enjoy a bit more of this formidablel city: free day in Paris, option to tour it with me, today we are exploring the left bank, near the hotel as well as further away. You may also meet for dinner, see options page.


* Saturday October 12: If you are still enjoying Paris you might want to tour it with me, today we have a lunch on prime spot at the Eiffel Tower, and experience which is obviously quite uncommon, and highly recommended. You can do just the lunch or the full day which includes Montmartre, and may also meet us for dinner, see options page.


* Sunday October 13: This is it folks, at least for me, I need to attend to next year's tours preparation and visit a few producers. But you are welcome to stay in Paris as long as you'd like, I can book your room for as long as necessary, provided that this is done as soon as possible, given that our hotel is very popular! See options page.


We shall see each others again.
paris, eiffel tower
Vue Imprenable
ABOUT THIS VOYAGE:
Jean-Christian Rostagni, Monsieur Contraste
Jean-Christian Rostagni

This is Your Hosts
Lineup:

to learn more about these characters, click on the thumbnail and then on "Open" in the lightbox in order to see what they are up to.

Loic Dété
Loic Dété


This trip will take you in France's Deep South, chasing medieval ghosts and scenaries only known to pilgrims on their way to Compostelle. There may be something mystical about this tour, in which you will encounter wine characters matching the sites of legend that will keep haunting you for years to come. in other words: nothing can prepare you for a tour in a part of France which is out of this world.

DATES: September 27 - October 11, 2024, including 2 nights and 1 days in Paris. See the Paris options here.

Limited to up to 13 travelers, plus Loic Dété and myself, your travel companions, drivers, guides, photography assistant, pétanque gurus, Philosophers, interpreters and hopefully entertainers.

$6.200 per person based on double occupancy, travel insurance and airfare additional, if 13 participants and in "Superieure" room in Nîmes, "Vendangeurs" room in Village #3, and "Superieure" room in Paris. $6,350 if 12 participants, $6,510 if 11 participants, $6,715 if 10 participants, $6,920 if 9 participants, $7,220 if 8 participants,. Please see options page to see all room choices, alternatively and beyond the rooms listed here.

The single accommodation supplement is $1,250 in Tour's single, "Superieure" room in Nîmes, "Vendangeurs" room in Village #3, or "Classique" room in Paris. Price includes hotel, meals, wine during meals, transportation, entrance fees when applicable, and should be considered all-inclusive, save for beverages in your room or at the bar and other services you might want to enjoy that are not part of the group activities.

Travel Insurance is mandatory, you will be quoted a rate based on your tour cost and other parameters. See here.

Please read our Viral Policy as well as the way of the Meals.

Photography: I will happily provide photographic assistance and share my photographer's perspective throughout the tour. And you may even be subjected to look at my portfolio which I will bring during the trip, in an effort to provide an artistic perspective on everything.

During this journey you will be able to compare wines from different appellations, see what the differences are, and get to understand why there are such differences. Our meals will always be paired with wines from the wineries that we visit. Those wines are imported by Contrast Wines, a sister company to Contrast Tours, and are available in wine stores and restaurants in NC, and may be shipped to other states.

The itinerary is subject to modification due to scheduling imperatives and other considerations, but I try to be as precise as possible here given the time distance from the actual tour. Please note that this is an epicurean journey, and while I will attempt to satisfy special requests when possible and if mentioned at booking, I cannot guarantee being able to accommodate all dietary needs. Please inquire if this is a matter of concern.

Please email me (use Contact Us button below) if you want to book or have any questions. You may also call me: 919-416-1111 or U.S. Cell: 984-312-5315, France Cell: +33 07 69 85 84 74
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eric hodge, wunc
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Jean-Christian Rostagni

a.k.a.

Monsieur Contraste


My name is Jean-Christian Rostagni, I am a photographer, and as such the subject of Rodrigo Dorfman's film Monsieur Contraste. Here is my photographer's website.

I am French and I have been living in the Triangle, North Carolina, since 1993. Over the years several gracious people expressed that they would like to travel with me as a guide in France. I wanted to see if that was true, and this is how Contrast Tours was created. You might want to read this article that explains the genesis of Contrast Tours as well as its philosophy in which art and wine get married.

I specialize in wine tours in France that provide an authentic French experience of voluptuous quality. I started with a tour of the Rhône Valley and its wines, as that is the region that I am from, and I know it very well. It is also a region that lands itself to this type of travel due to climate, geography and history. I now also operate a wine tour in Bordeaux, and this one in Occitanie

I hope to have the pleasure to transport you.

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eric hodge, wunc
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René Tanguy


I have known René for 40 years. We were both in the second school of photography that I attended. It was a great school, in the Unité de Recherche in Chemistry at the Faculté des Sciences Saint Charles in Marseille, totally unique, Some of the greatest French photographers of the time taught there, and it is where I met my mentor, Denis Brihat. It was such a great school that both Denis and I were fired, Denis became even more the revered photographer he already was and me, well, I am here! René stayed, finished his courses and had a long and often enviable career, notably working with major French corporations.

I have always loved René, everybody does. He is a better looking Gerard Depardieu, without the theatrics, more real, often with an irresistible sparkle in his eyes that have toured the world. René is from Brittany (can you tell?), about 2/3rd the polar opposite my mostly latin self, and we complement each other well. He is easy going, well spoken, very natural and thoughtful. I am very happy that he has accepted to tour with us and I know that you will find him a kind soul.

Here is René's website.
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tgv
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Grotte Chauvet
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